2004 Audi A4 3.0 Serpentine Belt Tensioner

Garner Dolow1975 · 12-eleven-201306:08 PM

12-eleven-201306:08 PM #1

Manchicle is offline

Registered Fellow member One Band

B6 A4 three.0 Serpentine Belt Tensioner

Hey guys. I'm new hither and this is going to be a lengthy postal service, just I hope it gathers some good info about what looks like a common problem.

2003 A4 3.0, 63k miles. Owned information technology for two years, haven't washed the timing belt yet, the plan has been to practise it this leap (one time it warms upwardly). For about a month I've had an intermittent belt "grind" sort of sound. I've been popping the hood and looking/listening on each kickoff, and the noise seemed to be accompanied past a nice, significant wobble of my harmonic balancer (crank pulley). Peachy. Online research and a lilliputian deductive reasoning brought me to the determination that the centering cardinal on my crank sprocket had sheared off and my timing was in jeopardy. Needless to say, I've been working on a plan to sideline the car.

Concluding night, sitting at a light a few miles from home, the grind became a screech for a 2d, went away completely, and a huge plume of stinky smoke went upward from my engine bay. I don't know if I've e'er been and so relieved to see a battery light and a tach at idle. Tugged on the steering wheel to confirm... yep, I simply threw the serpentine chugalug. Muscled it domicile no problem, popped the hood, and fished this out:

I noted some farthermost wearable on the backside of the chugalug, almost as if it has been... burning rubber! I didn't even have to reach in to know that the tensioner had locked up (but I did anyway). Well, this is a lot more manageable. And on top of that, with the serpentine chugalug off, the engine ran smooth equally e'er, no crank wobble in sight. I was able to option up a serp chugalug, tensioner, and the bulk of my tools today. At present that I take tomorrow's project in front of me, I figured I'd get my questions out of the way.

I like torque specs. Anybody got em for the tensioner assembly? Does the PS caster take to be removed to reach the tensioner with a 19mm wrench? That could be a problem without a belt on information technology. And do y'all guys call back that high resistance from a tensioner pulley could put enough elevate on a harmonic balancer to crusade a wobble, or should I still be concerned nearly the crank sprocket? I think I'll guild one with an enhanced Blauparts kit this spring just to be safe.

My other concerns have to do with reaching the affair in the first place. Is Service Position necessary for this? It appears that some have been able to simply remove a fan, or fifty-fifty squeeze in and wiggle it out without touching anything. I don't mind taking some things apart. Service Position seems simple enough, only I couldn't discover extra-long M8x1.25 studs at the hardware store to replace the special tools. Those of yous with feel doing front end end work, any tips or tricks would be much appreciated.

On a side note, I've always wanted to put together a little online forum pictorial to go forth with a repair on my vehicle. With enough interest and temperature permitting, I'll endeavor and snap some photos as it goes along. Thanks for your help.

12-11-201306:13 PM #2

Jake@JHM is offline

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Ouch!

We stock the B6 A4 3.0L Tensioner and Belt!

Service position is highly recommended when installing this. That way yous tin be certain everything is installed correctly. If you are able to, creating that DIY would probably help tons of people!

Jake

12-eleven-201307:05 PM #3

zz2h33 is offline

Veteran Member 4 Rings zz2h33's Avatar

I put information technology in what i call "partial" service position which is basically remove everything from the front stop except for the air-conditioning lines and you can tilt the front end out of the style plenty and then y'all'll have enough of room. you tin employ the 3.0 timing chugalug DIY for this work, merely i strongly recommend doing the timing belt while yous have it in "fractional" service position since that is one-half the piece of work of a TB job anyway. if the accompaniment tensioner went i have to suspect the timing belt tensioner is not too far backside and you lot practise Non want that to happen. this is the first fourth dimension i have read that an accessory chugalug broke

12-xi-201307:16 PM #4

87supraman is offline

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I only replaced mine. With this one, http://world wide web.amazon.com/dp/B001FK4RPI/..._0SrQsb0VTQD5S
It was identical to the one I pulled out, minus the audi rings that had been basis off.

Sent from my SCH-I545

12-11-201307:52 PM #five

Manchicle is offline

Registered Fellow member 1 Band

Quote Originally Posted past zz2h33 View Post

I put it in what i call "fractional" service position which is basically remove everything from the front except for the air conditioning lines and you can tilt the front end out of the way enough so you'll have enough of room.

Service Position has always been the problem here. I put off doing the diag on the grind because I knew I was going to be doing the T-chugalug presently, which would require putting the car in service position. A few online write-ups fabricated this look daunting, something I would only want to do one time. But the more research I do, the more it looks similar I tin practice something like what you're describing, pulling the front carrier dorsum just enough to become a ratchet downwards there. I'thou a dealership tech with enough of feel squeezing and wedging to bypass the removal of something. If all we're talking almost is a dozen or ii bolts, I don't listen doing this now and then all over once more come T-belt time in the spring.

Currently, my agreement of "partial service position" is this: Remove the lower and upper bumpers, fog lights, etc. Eight bolts on the forepart side of the carrier, two of which you supervene upon with long studs, and two bolts to a higher place each headlight. And its loose. At this bespeak, is there enough slack in all of the hoses and wiring to slide the carrier out those few inches I need? I've seen online guides that ultimately remove the condenser and lay information technology aside, only that always seems to be followed past swinging the forepart carrier completely off the automobile (what I understand to be full service position). Is it necessary to remove or unclip anything other than the main bolts if yous want to pull it back just a few inches? And any suggestions on supporting the carrier without the extra-long studs?

12-12-201305:32 AM #6

SJorge3442 is offline

Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar

I literally takes an extra 25min to take the whole carrier off. Then you have admission to the whole front of the engine. I volition never do any sort of work on my auto once more, without removing the unabridged carrier. The tensionor bolts are a pita to line up correctly and I wouldnt desire to take a chance stripping out the holes to save like xx min.

12-12-201309:21 PM #7

Manchicle is offline

Registered Member 1 Band

Well that was like shooting fish in a barrel. Also very common cold, which is why I don't accept very many pictures. Only took about two hours. Partial service position worked out perfectly. I found a pair of videos and a couple of serpentine/timing belt write-ups that gave me a pretty good idea of what to wait. I establish it easier to reach the three nuts on either side of the bumper by completely removing the fender liners, though it certainly took some patience fitting them back into place. Be prepared to lose a lilliputian washer fluid

With the bumper removed, its but a few bolts to go the whole forepart clip loose. I laid a folded tarp on top of the wheels and slid them underneath to back up the carrier. The whole thing will attempt to autumn out on you every bit y'all loosen the last few bolts. In that location isn't a whole lot of slack if you're leaving all of the coolant and refrigerant lines connected and in place, and at that place's a lot of plastic to potentially break, so I made sure not to let information technology sideslip or dangle. I pulled it out just far enough to put the front bolt above each headlight back in through the rear bolt hole in the carrier, simply to be safe. That gave me plenty of clearance to get a standard ratchet/socket downward to the 3 tensioner bolts. Here information technology is out of the car, up close:

Beautiful! I found those front covers and some ball bearing shards on the belly pan. Locked solid. The new i went in without much hassle. You're right about the tensioner bolts, the lower two kept trying to cross thread. A little patience and I got em all started right and torqued (had to settle for "hand tight"). Slipped the new chugalug on, un-pinned the tensioner... done. At this indicate I started it upwardly to check my work, ran smooth and repose. At that place was still the slightest twitch in the balancer, just no racket at all. Expert opportunity to take a peek a the T-chugalug:

Not too bad. Definitely some vesture from the pulleys, the beginnings of some stretch marks. Teeth await proficient, and zero looks out of the ordinary. With no noise, I feel good almost waiting till spring. I worked my fashion backwards and re-installed the carrier and bumper without issue. No left over bolts! I wanted to run the engine to charge upwards the battery, so I ran to the gas station for a acme off. Throttle was dainty and responsive, and I could finally pass a pedestrian without secretly wishing they were deaf. Crisis averted, until next time...

08-13-201701:08 PM #9

RetremendoGS is offline

Registered Member One Band

2003 audi A6 3.0 V6timing problems need of assistance.
Timing belt broke off. Due to a bad water pump pulley the belt came off. I heard and seen cams spin so timing is off. I replaced the water pump. I put a new belt on and I have placed the engine in TDC. Bought the cam lock tool but if the timing is off, Do i loosen the cam bolts from cams nether the blackness plastic (in picture ) Practise i turn the cams clockwise then i can lucifer and sit down the cam locking tool?

Where exercise i get from here?

08-13-201705:01 PM #10

SJorge3442 is offline

Veteran Member Iv Rings SJorge3442's Avatar

Quote Originally Posted by RetremendoGS View Post

2003 audi A6 iii.0 V6timing issues need of aid.
Timing belt bankrupt off. Due to a bad water pump pulley the belt came off. I heard and seen cams spin so timing is off. I replaced the h2o pump. I put a new belt on and I have placed the engine in TDC. Bought the cam lock tool but if the timing is off, Exercise i loosen the cam bolts from cams under the black plastic (in picture ) Do i plough the cams clockwise and so i can match and sit down the cam locking tool?

Where do i get from here?

Correct at present just go the tools to line upward with the cams. I used brute force to rotate the cams from the pullys with my hands to align the cams. One thing though, if you lost the timing belt while the engine was running, yous likely aptitude valves and just reinstalling a new timing belt isnt going to solve your problems. Its worth a shot, but your compression numbers wont be there I bet. Either way, you lot can't diagnose further without reinstalling the chugalug and doing a comp exam across the motor.

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08-15-201702:33 PM #eleven

shurur9 is offline

Veteran Member Three Rings

Besides supervene upon the aux belt tensioner bolt as well.
It has a history of shearing flush at the block.

Outset alert is inside wear on the aux belt..the chugalug slipping off the steering pump caster (cheap belts), or ribs existence worn downward from 6 to 5 ribs(quality belts)..