Do I Need a Cam Sprocket Puller to Change an Audi Timing Belt

gone postal

I ordered parts from Blauparts & they always include thorough instructions. I accept done several vw/Audi timing jobs, but all on gassers - this tdi is my 1st (2000 jetta). On all gassers, I didn't bother doing crank & cam seals bc they weren't leaking - neither is this tdi. I was able to go the belt back on wo removing/loosening the cam sprocket (did loosen ip sprocket). I had cam, crank & ip locks in place. The motor rotated past hand just fine & all marks lined dorsum upwards (well, I can't really come across flywheel mark - never could (plug was missing, so pretty muddied in there), simply crank lock fit back on fine. Anyway, tensioner is right, chugalug is tight, I have vag-com, etc, so I experience I'grand in good shape. Just curious bc people make these engines out to be practically incommunicable. just don't see what would make this and so much unlike than whatsoever other vag tb task.

rackaracka

Is information technology necessary to remove the camshaft sprocket? Information technology is if yous are doing the job following the procedures. This is a long debated topic here on the forums.

I've done several timing chugalug jobs without removing the sprocket - which is zippo to be proud of - and each fourth dimension the timing marks lined up perfectly. Unremarkably, when doing a timing chugalug this style you air current up being off a tooth afterwards y'all arrange the tensioner, and you have to relieve the tension, move the belt back a molar on the creepo sprocket and then retension the chugalug. I am not advocating this as a good method, but you asked the question... On those early jobs I also left the IP pulley bolts tight, and discovered when finished that the injection timing was also perfect after the new chugalug went on.

Not removing the camshaft sprocket volition: accept much longer, be more than difficult, and may result in a less than optimal setting of static timing due to small differences in the timing belt.

I take since realized the pleasance of the metalnerd camshaft pulley puller and always pop it off.
What is more critical is locating the cranshaft timing mark! Is the machine an auto or a 5spd? You cannot guess on this, and if you bought the metalnerd creepo lock, that has absolutley no precision in terms of finding tdc.

If you've rotated the engine through two full revolutions and not had interference, you lot are in the ball park, but I wouldn't start the engine without verifying crank tdc.

gone postal

I have a 97 - this 2000 is my neighbor'due south (I will be doing my 97 Tomorrow). The "creepo lock" I referenced bolts to the crank sprocket (with harmonic pulley off). Information technology has a 90* bend in it due west a notch cut out at the finish that fits over a "tab" that is on the block casing. Kinda hard to explicate, but seems as if the crank weren't lined up, so this vw tool wouldn't fit.

rackaracka

That tool will fit with the timing pulley a molar off.
Aren't the bolt holes slotted?

Photo from world wide web.metalnerd.com

gone postal

The car is a 5spd. Like I mentioned, the cover was missing from the "view hole", and then the flywheel is pretty dirty - non to mention in a difficult place to fifty-fifty see. I will try once again to locate it. I can see the tab on the bong housing - is mark on flywheel just a notch, paint mark, etc?

Also, the sprocket is on the cam when u install the belt right? It just has play in it like the ip sprocket right? I don't see how this helps or how I could be a tooth off. Non arguing, merely curious. I tin redo it if I need to - that was my stopping point final dark - just getting the chugalug on.

ninedee_golf_tdi

so the flywheel is pretty dingy - not to mention in a difficult identify to even see. I volition try again to locate it.

A tin can of aerosol brake clean works wonders.

ymz · January 16, 2011

I utilize the camshaft pulley to put the belt on... top idler out, tensioner in proper position (tang in backing plate), pull the belt tight over the injection pump pulley and stretch it over the camshaft nose (which has been thoroughly cleaned - as was the mating surface in the caster)... put commodities in to hold information technology slightly loose, put in pocket-size idler, go cheque flywheel - move it a hair retarded (equally information technology likes to creep forward while tightening the tensioner), tighten tensioner, double check TDC particularly at the flywheel... if not dead on, loosen tensioner (all the manner loose), move flywheel, tighten tensioner... if dead on, remove cam lock, torque camshaft bolt (40 - 45 Ft*Lbs), check TDC over again, rotate manually (using crankshaft commodities), etc.

Yuri

KLXD · January 16, 2011

Aside from getting the cam timing perfect, loosening the cam sprocket on the ALH engine (yours) allows the tensioner to be adjusted properly. If you lot don't have the sprockets free to rotate the tensioner is fighting the valve springs.

If you aren't going to redo it but are going to verify the crank position, since as everyone has said the crank lock is to hold the crank in position, non determine that position, once you discover the crank marker and verify its position and take turned the engine over a few times, verify the tensioner is still adjusted correctly.

The TDC marking is an indentation on the flywheel. You should be able to search up a pitcher of it.

Some other matter, before tensioning an AHU you must pull the IP pin and then it is gratis to rotate equally the slack is taken up by the tensioner.

Edit: Corrected concluding sentence as pointed out by YMZ. But it doesn't use every bit he is doing a 2000, not the '97 in his sig.

chrisfiat

don't want to do it right y'all volition pay the price!!

KLXD · January 16, 2011

NO !!! The pump must stay pinned, but the bolts belongings the sprocket should be loose so that the sprocket tin rotate on the hub as the tensioner is tightened!!!!

Yuri

OOPS! You lot're correct. I looked at his sig ('97) not the text.

Of course I then wrote ALH instead of AHU in my reply.

gone postal

Well, I eventually found the flywheel timing mark - extremely faint, but put some white paint on it. Turned the motor over past hand and all three spots lined up (cam lock, flywheel & ip). I finished the motorcar & take driven information technology around the block, revved it loftier, etc. All seems well.

The only effect I have now is the fine tuning westward vag-com. Block 9 was similar 101 & cake 2 was like 20-something (car had warmed up - I was cycling coolant, etc). My neighbor doesn't have a bentley for this machine (I have 1 for my 97, but doesn't cover his 00). Anyway, he said it feels fine, simply I wanna brand sure information technology'southward correct. I've seen pics of some graph in vag-com where u try and get the timing on the green line?!? How do i get to that? I understand the concept of turning the ip sprocket to advance/retard timing. Finally, he runs b100 - should I account for that at all in the tuning?